What is 'pure' cosmetics?

Pure cosmetics is for INDISHA:

  • Cosmetics without ingredients that are harmful to humans or the environment.
  • Products with the highest possible content of organic, biodynamic or 'wild' picked ingredients.
  • Cosmetics that are preferably packaged in sustainable packaging material.
  • Cosmetics that use fair trade ingredients where relevant and possible.

Why don't all INDISHA products have an organic quality mark?

  • For a number of brands at INDISHA, an organic quality mark does not go far enough. A product with an organic quality mark may still use up to 5% synthetic preservative.
  • For example, Abloom Skincare and Dr Baumann have succeeded in making effective & long-lasting products without synthetic preservatives. This is not easy! All Abloom Skincare ingredients are certified organic or 'hand crafted' - from unspoiled nature.
  • It may also be that an organic quality mark is still too expensive for a smaller producer. At INDISHA we always check the reliability and integrity of a producer. And we only work with a producer if its products meet our strict purity requirements.
  • For example, Dead Sea salt, another salt or mineral powder foundation will never receive an organic quality mark, because salt or mineral powder is a 'wild crafted' ingredient - from unspoiled nature. So not organically grown.

Is there a quality mark for pure, natural cosmetics?

  • In Europe alone there are ten quality marks for natural cosmetics. Not really clear. Some have stricter guidelines regarding (organic) ingredients than others. SOIL Association (SA) (England) applies the strictest guidelines regarding the percentage of organic ingredients in a product.
  • All quality marks prohibit animal testing, nano and genetic technology. However, animal testing has also been banned in the EU since 2013. However, it is difficult to check whether, for example, suppliers of ingredients from countries outside the EU also adhere to this. A qualified organic brand can be expected to strictly ensure that its suppliers do not use animal testing. The purest organic cosmetic brands would not 'need' animal testing at all. The ingredients of the products are so pure that they can simply be tested on people.
  • COSMOS is a new European umbrella quality mark in which SA, BDIH, Ecocert, ICEA, Bioforum collaborate on an overcooling guideline.
  • In anticipation of the arrival of COSMOS, a number of suppliers of pure cosmetic products founded their own organization in 2007, NATRUE . With its own quality mark for natural cosmetics.

    Quality mark

    To demand

    COSMOS – Europe (2009)

    Ecocert - Cosmos Organic
    • Relatively new European standard.
    • Collaboration of BDIH, BIOFORUM, COSMEBIO & ECOCERT, ICEA and Soil Association to establish minimum requirements for natural products and jointly define terms in the field of pure cosmetics.
    • At least 95% of all processed agricultural products must be natural.
    • At least 20% of the total end product must be organic (including water).
    • Maximum 5% synthetic ingredients.

    NATRUE – Europe (2008)

    • Non-profit organization founded by European natural cosmetics manufacturers.
    • 3-star system:
      • 3: 95% of all agricultural ingredients come from NATRUE's list of permitted ingredients.
      • 2: same, but 70%
      • 1: same, but 5-15% depending on product.

    BDIH – Germany (1995)

    • Quality mark established by industry and commercial organizations.
    • Toxic components are prohibited.
    • Ingredients are natural and organic (where possible).
    • Production process must meet strict environmental requirements.
    • No obligation to use organic ingredients.
    • Check once a year whether the guidelines are being complied with by the affiliated producers.

    Ecocert – France (2003)

    • Independent inspection body.
    • At least 10% of the ingredients of the total end product must be organic.
    • At least 95% of all ingredients must be of natural origin and may only be processed according to production methods approved by Ecocert.
    • A maximum of 5% of the ingredients may come from a limited list of synthetic ingredients
    • Annual inspection of affiliated producers.
    • Established by the government.

      Cosmebio – France (2002)

      • Quality mark from the professional association of cosmetic laboratories
      • Twice a year inspection by Ecocert or Qualite France, aimed at traceability of products, but also manufacturing method, transport, etc.
      • At least 95% of all ingredients must be of natural origin and transformed only with procedures authorized by Cosmebio.
      • A maximum of 5% comes from a limited list of other permitted ingredients.
      • At least 10% of the total end product must be organic.

      Bioguarantee – Belgium (2004)

      • Comparable to Ecocert.
      • Has been completely replaced by the COSMOS quality mark since March 2018.

      Soil Association – UK (2002)

      Soil Association
      • Independent inspection organization.
      • Strict control on toxic ingredients.
      • At least 95% of the ingredients must be organic for the product to be called 'organic'. Water doesn't count.
      • All packaging must state % organic ingredients.
      • Nanoparticles are prohibited

      ICEA –Italy (2003)

      • No minimum requirement for organic ingredients
      • Water is not considered an organic ingredient
      • Extensive list of ingredients that are and are not allowed.

      ICADA (International Cosmetics and Detergents Association)

      • Raw material directive for European natural cosmetics.

      USDA Organic – USA (2005)

      USDA Organic
      • Quality mark of the US Department of Agriculture.
      • Comparable to Soil Association quality mark.
      • At least 95% of ingredients must be of organic origin to be allowed to use the logo.
      • No synthetic preservatives allowed.
      NPA (Natural Products Association) – USA
      • Looks like BDIH
      • Founded by the industry itself.
      • At least 95% of the ingredients must be natural.
      • Maximum 5%: Only synthetic ingredients listed in the guideline.

      NSF - USA (2009)

      • Set up by large cosmetic companies.
      • At least 70% of ingredients, including water, must be organic to be allowed to carry the organic quality mark
      • More synthetic ingredients allowed than USDA

      NASAA - Australia (2005)

      NASA Organic
      • Similar to Soil Association


       When does a product receive an organic quality mark?

      • Each inspection body draws up a list of requirements with regard to the product and manufacturer
        • Minimum percentage of organic and/or ingredients.
        • What percentage of synthetic ingredients is allowed.
        • Which ingredients are allowed and which are not allowed.
        • Which processes for processing ingredients may and may not be used.
        • How water is calculated to determine the 'organic' content of a product.